vegetarian delights

even in a city which has an immensely diverse and rich dining landscape, i had been somewhat skeptical about going to an all vegetarian restaurant. perhaps because there is a limited number of purely vegetarian or vegan restaurants compared to a sizeable and relatively affluent vegetarian/vegan population in nyc, i suspected that most would get by making merely "acceptable" or "so-so" cuisine. so it was with great curiosity and a bit of nervousness (as i generally like to only recommend restaurants that i've been to), that i sought out such a restaurant to take the boy's sister, wafer, and brother-in-law.

the first choice, dirt candy, was booked so i spent a couple of hours researching vegetarian restaurants and calling to make reservations. in the end, the boy and i decided on counter, a restaurant i'd walked by many a time but never had particular reason to try out. the reviews were promising and fortunately the restaurant did not disappoint.

we were half an hour early and the host eagerly sat us at a table in the back. the atmosphere was cozy and while the decor was not quite "organic", was pleasant and comfortable. we shared the hummus tahini and mezze of corn beignets, panisse with aioli, and mushroom orleans. the boy and i both ordered the eastside burger while his sister and brother-in-law ordered the farmhouse panini. for drinks, i tried a glass of north fork cabarnet-merlot, wafer ordered the pear spritzer, and the boys ordered wolaver beers.

along with the drinks, the waitress brought a plate of spongy toasted bread and a delicious spread composed of tofu and sesame oil. the mezze and appetizers were amazing. the corn beignets were essentially fancified hush puppies, the chickpea fries a sophisticated cousin of the french fry, with the perfect amount of crispness and a subtle hint of chickpea earthiness. button mushrooms were fried and laid on top of a rich sauce. the hummus was solid and the yummy, chewy pita accompanying it was too good to resist. the eastside burger was a blend of wild mushroom pate, seitan, and fresh herbs and quite possibly the most satisfying veggie burger i've had to date.

kudos to counter! a vegetarian bistro with a playfood approach to food and excellent execution. among each dish was an interesting play of texture, well placed punches of flavor, and substantial portions. comfort food to satisfy any type of eater. will have to remember to save room for dessert next time.